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Old 11-18-2017, 10:30 AM   #22661
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Hmm... what I mentioned was OEM, local dealer Mercedes badged (one premium is available). The censors are third party tho as they stopped coming OEM. That's the good thing in this brand. Approved/certified OEM partners keep producing many parts after the mother company discredits them.

I drive an average of ~440 miles a week and relatively good pressure is done on the brakes. Haven't bothered with mileage-to-replace with the pads because of that cheap luxury censor part yet, but I'll start counting with this last change since I did it just two weeks ago and actually noted the mileage. If I'm not mistaken, they last for like 28-32k miles. But that's yet to be confirmed.

Complete brake job? Does that include the hub, discs, vacuum and fluid other than the pads (have I missed something)?
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Old 11-18-2017, 12:14 PM   #22662
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No, you were right, the whole nine yards. Pads, shoes, rotors, drums, wheel cylinders and hardware all new.

I got my SSI in 2005 and later they found that I was disabled since 2000 so I got backpay (I was actually disabled since 91). They only go back 5 years so I got 5 years worth.

I used to drive a little 87 Cavalier wagon. Runs good and had a tight engine and tranny but the car was falling apart around it. Drove it for 10 years before I got my Taurus with my backpay. I spent money on it including the brake job. That way I have a car I can keep for years and I had it since 2008.

It's my sweet chariot.
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Old 11-18-2017, 01:14 PM   #22663
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Yeah, the brake system is the most important part in a car. Safety always comes first.

You guys be happy with each other
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Old 11-19-2017, 07:18 AM   #22664
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I am happy with it. It's next to the Town Car.
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Old 11-19-2017, 11:29 AM   #22665
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Well, back to it. Quit Friday as we were just beat!!! Took yesterday off to heal. Still have to finish brakes and finish the rear-end. And the heater core yet. The rear-end is easy, put the cover on and fill with fluid. Need to bleed the brakes as the new master cyclinder is on. There is a lot of debate as to how the heater core comes out. My book shows that the dash comes loose at the bottom and then the whole heater/ac box has to come out. On you tubes they show it easy as there is a small cover that is three bolts, one then for the core and the core is out. I am hoping you tube is right. If it is, we should be done today. Later, wd65
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Old 11-19-2017, 02:42 PM   #22666
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Damn Dan you're having fun. I envy you.
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Old 11-19-2017, 09:38 PM   #22667
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Done!!! Everything done! What a royal pita! Good brakes and rear end fixed and new heater core. Heat just in time! It was in the low 30's here last night. Should be home tomorrow.
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Old 11-20-2017, 03:23 AM   #22668
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.

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Old 11-20-2017, 05:12 PM   #22669
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But.... still have that sound like driveshaft, or u-joint. We looked and pried and twisted and nothing. I have a feeling that its a cracked u joint. You hear that flutter noise when first starting and the clank when switching gears from reverse and drive. There is two u-joints, a sleeve and a carrier bearing and the yoke to the transmission.Maybe if i keep driving i can finally figure out what joint it is. The rear end was super cool even after a couple of hours on the road. Brakes need to have the rears adjusted. I didn't get them tight enough. Can tell that the fronts are doing most of the braking. Thats easy. am working on my next list. Front shocks. Steering shaft that goes between the column and steering box. Thats where the play is. tail pipe. That does it. I am also thinking about adding a rear sway bar. Just minor easy stuff. Later, I am so tired right now. WD65
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Old 11-20-2017, 08:35 PM   #22670
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All breaking in stuff Dan. You can look for play in the drive shaft assembly while a friend move the shifter back and forth.

Can you trust that axle? Did the bearing press on tight?
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