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Old 08-03-2010, 03:28 AM   #11
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Default Re: Desk Prototype (Ultimate Desk Stage 2)

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Originally Posted by foothead View Post
You really won't notice on the actual desk.
Of course you will
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Old 08-03-2010, 09:32 AM   #12
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Default Re: Desk Prototype (Ultimate Desk Stage 2)

A lot of varnish can seal up those cracks I think. That table looks really good though.
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:14 PM   #13
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Default Re: Desk Prototype (Ultimate Desk Stage 2)

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Hmmm. Well, that leg can go, then.

Alright, superman, when I get the parts, I'll see if I can get 3/4" thick plywood. That might actually be better anyway. Even then, I'll go ahead and add a bit of frame.
Check in to a ply called micro finish. It doesn't need sanded and takes stain rather well.
Under the left shelf I'd build a frame of hardwood and attach it to the bottom of the shelf plate, You can predrill countersink holes through it to make mounting it a lot simplier. I'd angle them so you get the max bite with the screws going in to the support legs.

On the right I'd put a bottom plate to have a spot to park your rigs. Maybe bring it up 6 inches or so to get them off the floor. Beats having them up on the desk chewing up real estate.

So far it shows promise.

And epoxy over varnish any day.
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:17 PM   #14
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Default Re: Desk Prototype (Ultimate Desk Stage 2)

Epoxy? No way man. My dad's a carpenter, and we've done plenty of wood work. Epoxy doesn't look nearly as nice as varnish. Varnish is a sealer, while epoxy is more of a glue. You can fill the cracks with wood putty then varnish over that.
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:08 PM   #15
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Default Re: Desk Prototype (Ultimate Desk Stage 2)

I can't wait to see this finished </jealousy>
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:01 PM   #16
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Default Re: Desk Prototype (Ultimate Desk Stage 2)

Superman, you can't use varnish as a gap filler. Sawdust and glue or epoxy would work better. Actually, if you wanna do it right, glue the boards together and attach it to the frame in a way that allows the whole top to expand and contract a bit. I can explain this more later, but it isn't TOO important with plywood if you go that route. Anyways, if there are gaps between the boards, fill them with epoxy. Clear. It looks great. And it also takes a polyurethane (which is what you should finish this with for durability) finish nicely. Looks good, that's how I filled a piece of cedar on a blanket chest I just finished.
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Old 08-05-2010, 04:54 PM   #17
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Default Re: Desk Prototype (Ultimate Desk Stage 2)

This may be it!

I've tweaked the design a little. I've added the front bezel like I wanted, added some support underneath the plywood, and added a platform for the tower like Seti suggested. I've also removed the one side leg on the shelf, but added a 2"x2" underneath it just in case I need it.

The case I found in Google's warehouse is an Antec 1200. This *might* be the case I go with on my next rig, maybe not, I've seen some pretty good full size cases here recently that look a lot nicer IMO.



This might be the final revision, I don't know for sure yet. Let me know if you still have suggestions.

Possible invoice for parts:
Two 1/2" to 3/4" Plywood Sheet, 4'x8' (thickness depends on stock)
Fourteen 2"x4"s (Maybe more or less depending on sold length)
Two 4'x4'
Six 2'x2'
Some 4", 2", and 1 1/2" Screws

*NOTE* If you think I'm buying too much lumber, OH WELL! If there is any extra left over, I want it. I can use it for other things. If there isn't any left over, then fine.

This is looking like a $250 to $300 dollar project, and a long day's work.
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Old 08-06-2010, 12:24 AM   #18
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Default Re: Desk Prototype (Ultimate Desk Stage 2)

I like the revised version. Take your time. Measure twice, cut once.
Superman22 I like epoxy over varnish for a few good reasons.
Less sensitive to having something hot set on it. Once it cures completely of course.
No sweat rings from cold drinks.
A rock hard protective surface that's smooth. Just ask all those thousands of boat owners that use marine epoxy to protect their investment.

As for filling in gaps, if you cut right you won't have any. A laser aligned chop saw is best for cutting the frame pieces while a table saw is good for the large flat pieces. Some places like Home Depot will course cut the larger pieces to make them more manageable to transport.
You glue the joints together and use clamps to get max pressure on the joint while the glue cures. Usually over night depending on the ambient temps.
Predrill countersunk screw holes where you need extra strength at a joint. Watch you don't use screws too long as a blow out shows and is a bear to fix.
Fun, fun, fun.
Be sure to count your fingers before and after the job.
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Old 08-08-2010, 02:49 AM   #19
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Default Re: Desk Prototype (Ultimate Desk Stage 2)

Just to throw this out there. Not a big deal, but if you get a windowed case such as the Antec 1200, you might want to flip the whole desk design around so the window of the case is visible. Otherwise it defeats the purpose of a windowed case. Other than that, I like it. I would love to have a bigger desk for my 3 monitors but I don't really have the money or space.
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Old 08-08-2010, 03:06 AM   #20
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Default Re: Desk Prototype (Ultimate Desk Stage 2)

Would have to flip the desk... the 1200 windows on the left side
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