GUIDE: Liquid Cooling Systems

[Grantofhell]

You don't have to be too meticulous on your block order. However, I always suggest placing the rad before your lineup of blocks, but after the pump. For me, it's Pump>Rad>CPU>Chipset>Res.

And also, in relation to the discussion of high flow systems with multiple blocks...

I've seen:

It's for many blocks under one pump. In order to keep the flow and not strain the pump, they use a bypasser line. I don't really approve of this and would rather buy a more powerful pump, or set up another loop.

 

[ItsLasher]

How it's done.

 

[Cabbs]

Awesome, another liquid-cooled member!

 

[foothead]

Looks good, except for the rad. Cut it into the underside of the top or mount it in back.

 

[Grantofhell]

Temps, clocks, specs, anything? Based on your previous posts, you seem to be an avid overclocker, so I'm interested to see what that setup can accomplish.

And here's how it's really done:

VVV While rebuilding the loop, so the CM is disastrous:

Not recent:

 

[Cabbs]

I like the 90's on the CPU and NB block. Looks much cleaner.

 

[Grantofhell]

I wish I could have used my two Koolance 90's instead of a Koolance angle riser and a TFC comp. But I needed the NB/SB block to get to proper height with the 340.

 

[foothead]

Whoah, that video card is very badly warped. What did you do to it?

 

[Cabbs]

It looks straight in the second pic, lens distortion? Or it could be from the cooler's lack of a back plate.

 

[Grantofhell]

Lens distortion, I'd have to assume. I'm looking right at my GTS250 and I can assure you it's not warped. The only PCB I've ever warped was my 680i, and that was because of the damn push pins on the 775D.

You can see how the PCI-E slot appears rounded, too. The camera was great in its time but isn't much these days - It's an Olympus.