MUSH I say. MUSH. pictures ahoy.
^^^ In case some of you haven't noticed yet, almost every cable attached to the board is sleeved with black nylon. Here you see the SATA cables which I'm going to bend tighter so they don't appear so bushy.
^^^ CPU region. I polished the CPU-340 and those Enzotechs really shine.
^^^ Again, sleeved cables. Which I might add was a very large PITFA with a hair dryer. I know a guy who has a nice heat-gun made by Chicago but I forgot to ask him for it. It worked in the end, but some of the heatshrink was a little too large for some cables.
^^^ The chipset block.
^^^ Personally, this is my favorite angle to take a snapshot of in a liquid cooled rig.
uhh. Here is the part where I answer some questions before people ask them.
Q: Why is there an ugly ziptie on your tube?
A: I'm leaving that on for about a week so the tube will naturally stay open instead of folding closed.
Q: The bottom of the case seems dark, why?
A: Half of the bottom cold cathode miraculously died while it wasn't even on...(EDIT to complete - Power went out) I have another cold cathode stick I'm going to get to replace the bottom one.
I'll also cover here the aspects that I mentioned in previous post I would.
From order as they were mentioned from my update post:
The Noise Isolator Fan Controller is infact a good looking unit and can control 6 fans between 3 channels (2 fans per channel). It can support 20W of power per channel. It does use Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) for controlling, but it executes poorly and causes motor noises. The power stepping is great though. The fan controlling part of this device is best used with low power fans - It does great with my Yate Loon. But causes noises and even cuts off when controlling my AeroCool Turbine 3k. And makes HORRIBLE noises when controlling the Delta fan for exhaust which I normally leave off because it is so loud. The bright side of this device are the two latching switches. They can each support 12v at 3A to make 36W of power. It uses a female floppy 4-pin to female 4-pin molex to power the device. I simply hooked on up to my CCFL harness and controlled my cathodes and the other to the exhaust fan so I can turn it on or off with ease. This is one of those analog controllers that does not fully power the fans on system boot so major + from me for that.
NOTE: This device comes with two 3pin (but only two wire) 6 inch extensions that are not sleeved. It also comes with only ONE of the adapters requires to power devices from the switches. Luckily I have some male 4-pin to female 4-pin that my Corsair came with which are similar to what the controller uses. Overall, for 30 dollars, it was not worth it for me as I already have a switch for my cathodes and I can control fans through the board. But it is nice to not have all my fans go to 100% at boot and have access to my most powerful fan and lighting at the front instead of reaching to the back or using SpeedFan which takes considerable time to initiate.
Next, I'll make a diagram to show where the mosfet banks are and their min mm and max mm.