Hi, new to this forum. I'm mostly a hardware guy, not much on SW. Which means I have a chance to do a power supply repair 
This router seems to be able to cope with power restorations after a power failure better than "consumer grade" routers. In that when the cable modem gets done reconnecting to the cable system, the router doesn't have to be reset because the router was up before the modem. There's a setting in this router that you can tell it to wait some period of time before retrying to connect to the modem, and the number of retrys it should do. A reason for me to have this fancy for the home router, also wanted many ports. Don't know why consumer grade routers don't have this retry feature, it would be just some lines of code in the firmware...
Okay, now onto the repair story:
I was using a Linksys RV082 8 port router, but I wanted more ports, so I got off ebay a 13 port Linksys RV016 router. It has 16 ethernet jacks, but two of them are for WANs, one for a DMZ, and the other 13 are LANs for PCs and such. Many rooms in the house now have ethernet jacks (wifi around here is too congested and slow). Received it, and after correcting some dumb errors (like connecting the cable modem to a LAN port and the PC to the WAN, and I had a laptop connected to a 2nd LAN (somehow the laptop found the internet)) got it running. Then a few days later the power supply dies. Seems the power supply input filter cap had gotten used to 120VAC in, and when I connected to 240VAC it eventually went bad and took out the bridge rectifier and fuse. The cap, 47uF 400V was bulging a little, tested it with a BK Precision 878 LCR meter, it had a really bad "D" value and almost no capacitance, replaced it with a 47uF 450V and the bridge with 4 1N4007s.
Back on the air, but the router power supply did seem kinda too warm, not hot, but warm, so I installed a small "CPU Cooler" fan and a small wall wart switching supply for it, after breaking its case open. In the picture below, the gray cardboard is "fish paper", designed for this purpose (to keep exposed "hot to the powerline" parts from touching the router board and chassis) for insulation. The router power supply seems cooler now. Also added a little more heat sinking to the semiconductors of the power supply. And an extra LED indicator on the router's front panel to tell me this new fan power supply is active. It's across a voltage dropping resistor I used to drop the voltage to the fan to about 8.3VDC to make it less noisy.
This router seems to be able to cope with power restorations after a power failure better than "consumer grade" routers. In that when the cable modem gets done reconnecting to the cable system, the router doesn't have to be reset because the router was up before the modem. There's a setting in this router that you can tell it to wait some period of time before retrying to connect to the modem, and the number of retrys it should do. A reason for me to have this fancy for the home router, also wanted many ports. Don't know why consumer grade routers don't have this retry feature, it would be just some lines of code in the firmware...
Okay, now onto the repair story:
I was using a Linksys RV082 8 port router, but I wanted more ports, so I got off ebay a 13 port Linksys RV016 router. It has 16 ethernet jacks, but two of them are for WANs, one for a DMZ, and the other 13 are LANs for PCs and such. Many rooms in the house now have ethernet jacks (wifi around here is too congested and slow). Received it, and after correcting some dumb errors (like connecting the cable modem to a LAN port and the PC to the WAN, and I had a laptop connected to a 2nd LAN (somehow the laptop found the internet)) got it running. Then a few days later the power supply dies. Seems the power supply input filter cap had gotten used to 120VAC in, and when I connected to 240VAC it eventually went bad and took out the bridge rectifier and fuse. The cap, 47uF 400V was bulging a little, tested it with a BK Precision 878 LCR meter, it had a really bad "D" value and almost no capacitance, replaced it with a 47uF 450V and the bridge with 4 1N4007s.
Back on the air, but the router power supply did seem kinda too warm, not hot, but warm, so I installed a small "CPU Cooler" fan and a small wall wart switching supply for it, after breaking its case open. In the picture below, the gray cardboard is "fish paper", designed for this purpose (to keep exposed "hot to the powerline" parts from touching the router board and chassis) for insulation. The router power supply seems cooler now. Also added a little more heat sinking to the semiconductors of the power supply. And an extra LED indicator on the router's front panel to tell me this new fan power supply is active. It's across a voltage dropping resistor I used to drop the voltage to the fan to about 8.3VDC to make it less noisy.
