Running a Laptop in a Car?

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I agree that it should be a fused line, regardless of how it's terminated to the inverter. I disagree, however with the rest of what you have said. If you're creating a permanent home for the inverter, find the location you want for your inverter, then run the correct gauge wiring for the distance.
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Ideally, yes, but the problem with simply running the appropriate gauge wire from the battery to the inverter is that the proper gauge wire may need to be a fairly large gauge. Look at it this way. If you need to supply 120VAC at 2A on the AC side, it will require cable on the DC side capable of carrying 10X that current or 20A in this case. As the current and the distance increases, the required gauge increases as well otherwise the voltage drop will be too great and the inverter will get a lower voltage on the input side.

I would modify your statement slightly to "If you're creating a permanent home for the inverter, find the location you want for your inverter as close to the battery as possible, then run the correct gauge wiring for the distance."
 
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Ideally, yes, but the problem with simply running the appropriate gauge wire from the battery to the inverter is that the proper gauge wire may need to be a fairly large gauge. Look at it this way. If you need to supply 120VAC at 2A on the AC side, it will require cable on the DC side capable of carrying 10X that current or 20A in this case. As the current and the distance increases, the required gauge increases as well otherwise the voltage drop will be too great and the inverter will get a lower voltage on the input side.

I would modify your statement slightly to "If you're creating a permanent home for the inverter, find the location you want for your inverter as close to the battery as possible, then run the correct gauge wiring for the distance."

Indeed. It's not going to be cost effective to run a 0 gauge wire 5 feet for a 1500w inverter. But, that goes back to the initial assumption that he doesn't need something that beefy. It's a laptop, not a hairdryer. :D ...no need to run 0 gauge cabling for a 200w inverter. In fact, <200W should actually run fine through the 12v aux port (cig lighter). I wouldn't exceed that, and I'd check your manual first, but, it's usually a pretty good "top" figure to go by. Anything under that should be alright. But, I guess that point is moot as well, since he will be doing a direct install to the battery as he mentioned.
 
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Thats one of the 1500w ones:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=271204309787&alt=web

If I go down the inverter route it will be hard wired in, not via a lighter socket or battery clips...

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If you want to be able to use anywhere near the rated 1500 watts you will definitely need to hardwire it since the DC side will need to supply 125A @ 12VDC. The 12V sockets are lucky if they can handle 8A and I'm sure those battery clips would not be able to handle that much current.
 
Wiring, fuses, kill switches, etc are no issues in this case. My interest for this thread is purely inverter vs power pack (to which you guys have answered), and now what my best option is regarding inverter output.

The chances of me running anything other than the laptop are slim. Will a 1500w be overkill; am I best actually aiming for 200-300w?

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Wiring, fuses, kill switches, etc are no issues in this case. My interest for this thread is purely inverter vs power pack (to which you guys have answered), and now what my best option is regarding inverter output.

The chances of me running anything other than the laptop are slim. Will a 1500w be overkill; am I best actually aiming for 200-300w?

Sent from my GT-I9100P using Tapatalk

IMHO, yes. 1500W is severe overkill. Do yourself a favor, keep things simple, and just grab a 200W inverter.
 
Just to clarify, are we talking peak or running watts?

The 1500w ia peak, states 800w running...

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