FlightSimBoy
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Anyone else hate routing cables in vehicles?
I'm trying to put a new +12V constant line in my van. Not sure what I did, I either stripped the original out or shorted it somewhere. All fuses are fine, checked every single one with a multimeter.
But my God, I spent over 2 hours trying to run the new line, and I just couldn't do it. I couldn't find any hole in the firewall to work with, and I didn't want to drill another, but I found (or so I thought) a perfect spot, where the hood latch release cable runs into the car. I got a coat hanger all the way through with no problems, but when it came time to run the line through it, forget it. It just did not want to go. It would be the perfect spot if I could get the line to run through.
Not sure what the exact issue is with the original 12V line though. All of my research I've done has led me to believe if I shorted it out somewhere, then my dome lights, cigarette lighter, and power locks won't work unless the key is turned on, however, my dome lights work. Cigarette lighter and power locks don't. Everything works fine when the key is on. I'm confused as to why some things work, but others don't. Until I get the new +12V line in, I'll just run the radio off of the switched +12v. It works fine that way, but the radio doesn't keep presets or time that way.
It seems to me like cars, vans and smaller trucks are a pain to work with when it comes to audio. No room to work. However, in my F-150 (may it rest in pieces) I had an extra foot of cable to work with on the audio wiring, from the factory!
Anyone else ever run into problems like this?
BTW, if you can help figure out what's wrong with the original +12V line before I get the time to attempt to route the new one again tomorrow, I have a 1999 Plymouth Voyager.
I'm trying to put a new +12V constant line in my van. Not sure what I did, I either stripped the original out or shorted it somewhere. All fuses are fine, checked every single one with a multimeter.
But my God, I spent over 2 hours trying to run the new line, and I just couldn't do it. I couldn't find any hole in the firewall to work with, and I didn't want to drill another, but I found (or so I thought) a perfect spot, where the hood latch release cable runs into the car. I got a coat hanger all the way through with no problems, but when it came time to run the line through it, forget it. It just did not want to go. It would be the perfect spot if I could get the line to run through.
Not sure what the exact issue is with the original 12V line though. All of my research I've done has led me to believe if I shorted it out somewhere, then my dome lights, cigarette lighter, and power locks won't work unless the key is turned on, however, my dome lights work. Cigarette lighter and power locks don't. Everything works fine when the key is on. I'm confused as to why some things work, but others don't. Until I get the new +12V line in, I'll just run the radio off of the switched +12v. It works fine that way, but the radio doesn't keep presets or time that way.
It seems to me like cars, vans and smaller trucks are a pain to work with when it comes to audio. No room to work. However, in my F-150 (may it rest in pieces) I had an extra foot of cable to work with on the audio wiring, from the factory!
Anyone else ever run into problems like this?
BTW, if you can help figure out what's wrong with the original +12V line before I get the time to attempt to route the new one again tomorrow, I have a 1999 Plymouth Voyager.