Grantofhell
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I have yet to see one of these here at CF, so it's time.
Guide to building Liquid Cooling Systems:
Intro: What do you mean, "intro"? No, I'm not going to tell you why people build LCS's or where they first originated because I'm sure you don't care. I'm going to overview the basics for those that don't already know.
Main Components -
Some Side-Notes -
There are often combo devices made to compact the system or lower cost.
Some of these combos can be like a reservoir and a pump, or a passively cooled reservoir for smaller loops with only a harddrive or something. Also combo blocks but typically just Chipset blocks (NB+SB block). Also note that with more powerful cards you will want a full card block so that the Vregs and memory can be cooled as well as the GPU.
Still with me?
More Advanced:
So go on and think about what type of res, rad, pump, and blocks you want. It's time to get a little technical.
Tubing Technicalities -
Of course there is tubing, but what is best?
There are many specifications to the tubing that is critical to how well your system will perform. First off there is size:
OD = Outer Diamater typically in inches but sometimes in millimeters.
You'll typically see tubing specification like 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD. That's a 1/16 wall thickness. You'll never need much more than that because it's not like your LCS is under gun fire or even considerable pressure. But you can get a 1/8 thickness if you want. Wall thickness DOES have bearing on how well it bends, though. Thicker walls tend to kink less but aren't as capable for tight spaces.
Fittings -
This is a part that can affect not your cooling performance, but your investment! Here's something you need right now: G1/4. Mind you that has nothing to do with tubing ID/OD. It's the threading size for fittings on your blocks and LCS components. Here are the two types of fittings you'll come across:
Some Side-Notes -
Some fittings are angled or even 90* to make it easier to travel the tube to a device that's perpendicular or just really close. Try to make sure the fittings you go to buy have something like a rubber o-ring to further prevent leaks on the G1/4 thread. Also, There's something called Teflon Tape that you will want to put on the G1/4 thread to even FURTHER prevent leaks. They can be devastating if you're taking a leak and you come back to over half a grand of losses because you didn't apply 16 cents of tape.
Device Technicalities -
Pumps -
This is a pretty crucial decision. Pick too high flow and you burn it up, pick too low flow and you lose valuable cooling abilities. So don't grab the most expensive one and call it a day. Their flow is typically measured in Gallons Per Hour/Liters Per Hour (GPH/LPH) and ranges from ~90-300GPH. It's very hard to tell you what exactly to buy without knowing the rest of the specs, too. Loop size, tubing size, how tight some turns are, how large your radiator is, etc. So make a good estimate. If you're using mid-sized tubing with a mid-sized loop, buy a mid-rated pump. If you really can't decide, PM me.
Radiators -
Can be many different things. Mostly externally mounted but still very near a fan on the computer because most radiators rely on fans to cool properly. They range from single 80mm's to quadruple 120mm's and beyond. Try looking at Fins Per Inch (FPI). And what materials they are made of. How corrosive the material they are made of is, The design of the flow through it (U or S style), and how well your fans will breathe through it, thickness, things like that.
Reservoirs -
Simple. Pick one that suits your style. Internal, bay-ready, external, you name it. Some reservoirs are even passively cooled (though I'd still suggest a fan blowing on it) They are tube shaped, cubicle, and...well...lots of shapes. Mind the material it's made of and as above, how corrosive it is, and if it's acrylic, is it thick so it doesn't crack when you thread the G1/4. Again, ask yourself these questions to avoid a bad purchase.
Blocks -
Same as all the others. Look for material, flow design, corruptibility by corrosion and all problems alike.
Tubing -
Most tubing will work. Certain brands lay claim to having smoother surfaces, or less bending problems. I've always read well of Tygon products (that's what I personally use). PrimoChill is also noted to be pretty good. Looks for what suits your needs at a price you can afford. Also, color...Some prefer colored tubing and others prefer clear tubing with colored liquid.
Liquid -
Just as important as the rest and probably among the most argued things in liquid cooling. Distilled Water versus High performance synthetics. Water will require more maintenance as well as biocides, while most synthetics break down after about a year. Also consider if the liquid you buy is conductive in case of a leak. As well as considering if the liquid absorbs and loses heat well (how easily it's affected by the ambient temps). I use FeserONE because it's a synthetic (prevents biological issues), has low conductivity, and comes colored. As far as coloring goes, you can use food coloring dyes to make a desired color...it will eventually settle out and require you to flush/change the loop. That's a regular maintenance item anyways.
Some Final Notes -
How to fill the system - pour it in slow and let it fill the lines, short the PS-ON signal wire and a ground with the pump plugged in (no other hardware!). Let the pump cycle the fluid and run the air bubbles to the reservoir. Add liquid as needed and repeat. Then ALMOST top off the res.
Draining - Quickly disconnect the lowest possible hose in your loop, and hold over a container large enough in size (appropriate for your loop size). Then open the fillport on the reservoir. Move/shake the tower as necessary to let all the liquid out of blocks/radiators.
Replace the liquid every 8-12 months for maximum cooling performance. Drain out the whole loop and refill your system like you did the first time it was assembled.
Buy high-flow fans for your radiator. They are the only things keeping the liquid from getting too hot. The alternative is Low-flow ready radiators with a 8-9FPI count and ~35-40 CFM fans. YateLoon makes good fans for this.
Buy a flow-meter or buy a res with one built in to ensure that the pump hasn't stopped for whatever reason. It's not necessary if you don't mind watching the liquid really closely for a sec or two to check if it's moving.
Avoid, if at all possible, waterfall reservoirs...they just create bubbles that your pump will suck up.
Device Failures while away - In case of a device failure while you are away from your computer, it's a sensible idea to buy a Chip or a front bay device that can read your pump's flow or system liquid temperature. If the system detects a problem, it shuts off the computer to keep it safe until you return to fix the issue. There are also devices that will sound a very loud alarm. Liquid cooled PC's aren't normally meant to be on 24/7. So be sure to turn them off when you leave or go to sleep to avoid potential failure risks.
Congratz, you now know the basics about everything required to build your own LCS.
Suggestions? Comments? Additions? Corrections? Post it here.
Below: Foothead's (a resident liquid cooler) budget-assigned loop suggestions!
Guide to building Liquid Cooling Systems:
Intro: What do you mean, "intro"? No, I'm not going to tell you why people build LCS's or where they first originated because I'm sure you don't care. I'm going to overview the basics for those that don't already know.
Main Components -
- Reservoirs - Right, where the extra liquid is stored when it's not already in the loop. These can be in the bay sometimes, be in a fan slot, be internal, or even be external. Depends on preference.
- Radiators - Simple as it sounds; You attach fans to it and it cools the liquid that's flowing through it.
- Pumps - They range from the size of a penny to a commercial backup generator. But typically the ones for a computer end up being small enough to fit in your case. Just moves the liquid in one direction so that it can eventually be cooled down for re-use.
- Blocks - A term used for a hollow metal piece that flows the liquid over the object you desire to have cooled. Blocks can be for many different things. Most common are CPU and GPU. But there are also Chipset (NorthBridge and SouthBridge) blocks, mosfet blocks, RAM blocks, and even HDD blocks.
- Tubing - Transports the liquid from block to radiator, etc.
- Liquid - Have you Face-Palm'ed yet?
Some Side-Notes -
There are often combo devices made to compact the system or lower cost.
Some of these combos can be like a reservoir and a pump, or a passively cooled reservoir for smaller loops with only a harddrive or something. Also combo blocks but typically just Chipset blocks (NB+SB block). Also note that with more powerful cards you will want a full card block so that the Vregs and memory can be cooled as well as the GPU.
Still with me?
More Advanced:
So go on and think about what type of res, rad, pump, and blocks you want. It's time to get a little technical.
Tubing Technicalities -
Of course there is tubing, but what is best?
There are many specifications to the tubing that is critical to how well your system will perform. First off there is size:
- 1/4ID(6mm) - Best suited for small loops containing one block or two small blocks (CPU or HDD setups).
- 3/8ID(10mm) - For most typical setups. CPU and GPU and chipset.
- 1/2ID(13mm) - For full loops. CPU, Chipset, Mosfets, Multiple GPU's, HDD's, RAM, the whole 9 yards.
OD = Outer Diamater typically in inches but sometimes in millimeters.
You'll typically see tubing specification like 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD. That's a 1/16 wall thickness. You'll never need much more than that because it's not like your LCS is under gun fire or even considerable pressure. But you can get a 1/8 thickness if you want. Wall thickness DOES have bearing on how well it bends, though. Thicker walls tend to kink less but aren't as capable for tight spaces.
Fittings -
This is a part that can affect not your cooling performance, but your investment! Here's something you need right now: G1/4. Mind you that has nothing to do with tubing ID/OD. It's the threading size for fittings on your blocks and LCS components. Here are the two types of fittings you'll come across:
- Barb Fittings - Simple as can be. It looks like a barb-tip that you slip the tubing over and use a clamp to hold it on. They are pretty safe and cost a considerable amount less.
- Compression Fittings - More security, It uses a threaded tightening system to hold the tubing on. Very costly. Example?
Some Side-Notes -
Some fittings are angled or even 90* to make it easier to travel the tube to a device that's perpendicular or just really close. Try to make sure the fittings you go to buy have something like a rubber o-ring to further prevent leaks on the G1/4 thread. Also, There's something called Teflon Tape that you will want to put on the G1/4 thread to even FURTHER prevent leaks. They can be devastating if you're taking a leak and you come back to over half a grand of losses because you didn't apply 16 cents of tape.
Device Technicalities -
Pumps -
This is a pretty crucial decision. Pick too high flow and you burn it up, pick too low flow and you lose valuable cooling abilities. So don't grab the most expensive one and call it a day. Their flow is typically measured in Gallons Per Hour/Liters Per Hour (GPH/LPH) and ranges from ~90-300GPH. It's very hard to tell you what exactly to buy without knowing the rest of the specs, too. Loop size, tubing size, how tight some turns are, how large your radiator is, etc. So make a good estimate. If you're using mid-sized tubing with a mid-sized loop, buy a mid-rated pump. If you really can't decide, PM me.
Radiators -
Can be many different things. Mostly externally mounted but still very near a fan on the computer because most radiators rely on fans to cool properly. They range from single 80mm's to quadruple 120mm's and beyond. Try looking at Fins Per Inch (FPI). And what materials they are made of. How corrosive the material they are made of is, The design of the flow through it (U or S style), and how well your fans will breathe through it, thickness, things like that.
Reservoirs -
Simple. Pick one that suits your style. Internal, bay-ready, external, you name it. Some reservoirs are even passively cooled (though I'd still suggest a fan blowing on it) They are tube shaped, cubicle, and...well...lots of shapes. Mind the material it's made of and as above, how corrosive it is, and if it's acrylic, is it thick so it doesn't crack when you thread the G1/4. Again, ask yourself these questions to avoid a bad purchase.
Blocks -
Same as all the others. Look for material, flow design, corruptibility by corrosion and all problems alike.
Tubing -
Most tubing will work. Certain brands lay claim to having smoother surfaces, or less bending problems. I've always read well of Tygon products (that's what I personally use). PrimoChill is also noted to be pretty good. Looks for what suits your needs at a price you can afford. Also, color...Some prefer colored tubing and others prefer clear tubing with colored liquid.
Liquid -
Just as important as the rest and probably among the most argued things in liquid cooling. Distilled Water versus High performance synthetics. Water will require more maintenance as well as biocides, while most synthetics break down after about a year. Also consider if the liquid you buy is conductive in case of a leak. As well as considering if the liquid absorbs and loses heat well (how easily it's affected by the ambient temps). I use FeserONE because it's a synthetic (prevents biological issues), has low conductivity, and comes colored. As far as coloring goes, you can use food coloring dyes to make a desired color...it will eventually settle out and require you to flush/change the loop. That's a regular maintenance item anyways.
Some Final Notes -
How to fill the system - pour it in slow and let it fill the lines, short the PS-ON signal wire and a ground with the pump plugged in (no other hardware!). Let the pump cycle the fluid and run the air bubbles to the reservoir. Add liquid as needed and repeat. Then ALMOST top off the res.
Draining - Quickly disconnect the lowest possible hose in your loop, and hold over a container large enough in size (appropriate for your loop size). Then open the fillport on the reservoir. Move/shake the tower as necessary to let all the liquid out of blocks/radiators.
Replace the liquid every 8-12 months for maximum cooling performance. Drain out the whole loop and refill your system like you did the first time it was assembled.
Buy high-flow fans for your radiator. They are the only things keeping the liquid from getting too hot. The alternative is Low-flow ready radiators with a 8-9FPI count and ~35-40 CFM fans. YateLoon makes good fans for this.
Buy a flow-meter or buy a res with one built in to ensure that the pump hasn't stopped for whatever reason. It's not necessary if you don't mind watching the liquid really closely for a sec or two to check if it's moving.
Avoid, if at all possible, waterfall reservoirs...they just create bubbles that your pump will suck up.
Device Failures while away - In case of a device failure while you are away from your computer, it's a sensible idea to buy a Chip or a front bay device that can read your pump's flow or system liquid temperature. If the system detects a problem, it shuts off the computer to keep it safe until you return to fix the issue. There are also devices that will sound a very loud alarm. Liquid cooled PC's aren't normally meant to be on 24/7. So be sure to turn them off when you leave or go to sleep to avoid potential failure risks.
Congratz, you now know the basics about everything required to build your own LCS.
Suggestions? Comments? Additions? Corrections? Post it here.
Below: Foothead's (a resident liquid cooler) budget-assigned loop suggestions!
Last edited:
) 4 feet should be sufficient. $9