OCing my E8400...

I usually put them on a flash drive and do it from the BIOS, never let me down.
 
Yes, I think I'm going to go with a proven track record vs. a what-if, so I'll probably just pick up the MX-2.
I use MX-2, great stuff. Comes in a big tube as well so it lasts a lifetime.
BTW (to anyone): Will I see any difference in temps (I'm thinking marginal) if I pick up a mounting bracket for my XIGMATEK HSF? (I know that I should anyways because due to the weight of the HSF it's probably stressing the MB by just using the push clips)
Most review sites who tested with and without the bolt-through kit said in decreased temps not significantly but noticeably. Mos
I don't know if the Thermalright one works, but I'd go with that just because it will work. You might get better temps, but the kicker is you don't have to worry about those cheesy push pins keeping that tower from falling off your CPU.
The Thermalright LGA 775 bolt-through mounting kit does work with the Xigmateks.
 
I use MX-2, great stuff. Comes in a big tube as well so it lasts a lifetime.

Yup I'm pretty much 100% set on getting that. Thanks!

Most review sites who tested with and without the bolt-through kit said in decreased temps not significantly but noticeably.

Great...an added bonus!


The Thermalright LGA 775 bolt-through mounting kit does work with the Xigmateks.

Can anyone post a link? I don't see any at Newegg...
 
I did my own TIM tests, MX-2, TX-2 and NT-H1 all were within a degree of each other on the same setup and were a several degrees lower than AS5.

The convenience of no "settling in period" is a major bonus with those three whereas AS5 requires 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve an optimal heat transfer state.

I believe worshipme is talking from experience, iirc he ran the xigmatek prior to the TRUE120
 
The convenience of no "settling in period" is a major bonus with those three whereas AS5 requires 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve an optimal heat transfer state.

Yeah...to quote something I read on the internet about the negatives of AS5 "I want to have my cake and eat it too" (i.e. it's not worth the wait to improve temps by 2 or 3 degrees AFTER 200 hours versus something that doesn't need curing...I want wow now! :p)
 
I believe worshipme is talking from experience, iirc he ran the xigmatek prior to the TRUE120
I had the OCZ copy. I didn't actually buy a bolt-through kit for it but it's been confirmed hundreds of times that the Thermalright kit works.
Can anyone post a link? I don't see any at Newegg...
Newegg don't seem to stock the TR stuff anymore, so just get the Xigmatek backplate, it's identical.
 
Newegg don't seem to stock the TR stuff anymore, so just get the Xigmatek backplate, it's identical.

Haha....we totally just went around in a complete circle :p ...cuz the Xig backplate is out of stock at newegg....stupid newegg...I don't know why they can't order a whole batch of them. Just like last week when I wanted to order some crucial laptop mem for a client...it went in stock and out of stock 2 or 3 times PER DAY and I missed it everytime...even with autonotify....like within 10 minutes it was gone. Retarded. Period.

I guess I'll just have to wait till the backplate is in and then I'll order the MX-2 withit. Darn waiting anyways. Postponing my OCing :(....haha.
 
That retention bracket is never in
Had to postpone my build for 2 weeks waiting for it lol.
 
Figured I might as well just bring this thread back instead of making a new one, which would've been pointless.

So, I've got Xiggy retention bracket and the new MX-2 installed and my temps are about the same at idle, but under load, it's doing great. Right now I've got it OC'd to 3.3Ghz @ 1.2v. I originally had it at 3.4Ghz but everything had such funky timings that it ended up freezing (I think...). I actually tested the 3.4Ghz setup in Orthos for 5 minutes. Temps were stable (look at the pic below for that) and everything. It was when I quit Orthos and started using IE (had about 8 tabs open) that it all out froze and I had to do a hard restart...which surprised me since it withstood orthos...so I'm thinking it might've been a RAM issue since at 3.4ghz, the RAM can ONLY be set at about ~750mhz (I'll try and post some BIOS pics in a bit..there's a lot of options not on there...).

Anyways, it's running stable right now at 3.3Ghz, but I'd like to give 3.6Ghz another crack. I couldn't get it to post when I tried it before, and that was even at about 1.275v...so maybe that'll need to get bumped again.

Currently at 3.3Ghz I've got:
*Memory voltage at 2.17v which is as close as I can get to the 2.2v my Patriot takes
*Vcore at 1.2v
*NB Voltage @ 1.208v I believe (this is the lowest setting other than Auto)
*Vcore Offset disabled (only other option is +100mv)
AND THAT'S ALL THE VOLTAGE OPTIONS I HAVE (should there technically be more?)

I'm running CPU/RAM unlinked because 1:1 like someone suggested would never work...if I OC'd to 1600mhz for the FSB, then RAM is also at 1600mhz which is double what it can run (maybe someone meant to say 2:1?..2:1 is "sync mode" in my Asus bios).

My mem timings are standard for what Patriot calls for:
4-4-4-12 2T with 21tRC

Since I backed it down to 3.3Ghz, my CPU:RAM is 11:12.

I think that the person who said 1:1 is correct, but just not with my BIOS. Cuz like I mentioned before, 1:1 would be double and there's no way my 'puter would even post let alone boot. I'll show you what I mean by all of this when I snap some pics of the BIOS.

Let me know your thoughts. I'll try and post my BIOS pics later, and I'll attach the ORTHOS/Temp tests too.

EDIT: Well, I guess for some reason my screen shot didn't work so you'll just have to trust me :). After about 5 min in orthos (running small ffts), my temps maxed at about 50* Core 1 and 40* Core 2...

Also, what's up with the Vdroop thing or whatnot. When I had it set to 1.275v, CPUz at idle was showing like 1.33v or something...then it dropped to like 1.22 or so at load...just wondering if this is okay. I just thought it was funny that it was HIGHER at idle than BIOS is set at....
 
They mean a 1:1 ratio with actual FSB, not rated FSB. If your FSB is set to 400, your memory should be at 400 Mhz, or DDR-800.
 
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