stereo ohms / coils?

Re: stereo ohms?

ArrizX said:
so...

a 100watt at 4ohms is full power. but 100watts at 8ohms gives me 50watts per 4ohms? then technicly i still get all the wattage?

First part, Yes, You would be left with 50 watts if you double the ohms. ..Your second part No. If your now 50W is rated at 4 ohms, then your 8 Ohms brings you down to 25W. So No, You don't have the same Wattage.
 
Re: stereo ohms?

ArrizX said:
thanks! Now care to explain coils please?

I'm going to assume your buying a Car Audio system.


A voice coil is the coil of wire attached to the apex of the moving cone of a loudspeaker. It provides the motive force to the cone by the reaction of a magnetic field to the current passing through it.

Dual Voice Coils is a more complex way of wiring your system which gives your more options for wiring.

Parallel: A dual 4-ohm voice coil subwoofer with its coils wired in parallel presents a 2-ohm load to your amplifier. Since an amplifier produces more wattage at a lower impedance, the parallel connection ensures you'll get the most output from your amp. In the same fashion, if you have a stereo amplifier and two DVC subs, wire both subs for 2-ohm impedance (one per channel) for maximum output.

Series: Series wiring lets you configure multiple woofers to one amplifier at an acceptable impedance. Wire both coils in series for an 8-ohm impedance, and then wire two 8-ohm subs together in parallel for 4-ohm total impedance (perfect for most 2-channel amps bridged to mono operation). Another example: if you have a high-powered 2-channel amplifier, wire four 8-ohm subs per channel (each channel sees a 2-ohm load).

Independent: You can wire each voice coil to a separate channel of your amplifier, if you prefer not to bridge your amp. Independent wiring is a nice option if you're wiring two DVC subs to a 4-channel amplifier — one voice coil per channel.

SVC= +/-
DVC= +/-,+/-
 
If you see x Watts RMS, the real wattage is set for you as x.

RMS is the real wattage in a system, regardless of the ohms, since they have putted it in mind.

Also, I prefer 8ohms since they are more resistant than 4. 4 ohms can make the speaker easier as it can pull louder sounds.
 
ArrizX said:
Hmm...

Yeah, its going to be for my car.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-taseZax9Gzn/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=510&I=204BT8DVC

I want two of those, to put behind each seat.

So, Lhuser, are you saying that with 4 ohms is too easy to blow a speaker? And, AmericanSensei what do you think about that bazooka tube?

Well, it is more louder than a 8ohms, but the reason that I say that is by going with the rules. I'd prefer have a 32ohms than a 2. The lower, the louder, the more possible damage it can get.
 
Well, you mean damage to the speaker or your ear? Because the speaker will be rated for the power I put in it, and im going to be really cautious about how lound it really is when I drive. but when parked in a parking lot or something with friends, ill just crank it and open all the doors and the sun roof :D
 
ArrizX, ArrizX, ArrizX, Lol.

Just purchase the amount of juice you need with 4 or 8 ohms. One question thought, If you have a car why are you going with bass tubes?
 
Lol


Because, there is like no room. I mean, I have the trunk, but thats only good for a party or when your in a parkinglot hanging with your car parked and trunk open. so when Im going to do, is get two of these and because one end is sealed, ill stand it up behind my seat. People can fit their legs around it and ill get some kick ass sound.

So really it doesnt matter, really between the 4 and 8. As long as I get a powerfull (looking at a 500 watt amp) ill be good?
 
For those two tubes, yes. If other speakers are getting hooked up then your going to have to step back and see what you have and how much power your going to need to power them to their "full" potential, Not that you really need it.

I have a 1200W Amp powering my two 6x9's 300W a piece, and my sub which is 500W.
 
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