GUIDE: Liquid Cooling Systems

[Grantofhell]

I have yet to see one of these here at CF, so it's time.

Guide to building Liquid Cooling Systems:

Intro: What do you mean, "intro"? No, I'm not going to tell you why people build LCS's or where they first originated because I'm sure you don't care. I'm going to overview the basics for those that don't already know.

Main Components -

Reservoirs - Right, where the extra liquid is stored when it's not already in the loop. These can be in the bay sometimes, be in a fan slot, be internal, or even be external. Depends on preference.
Radiators - Simple as it sounds; You attach fans to it and it cools the liquid that's flowing through it.
Pumps - They range from the size of a penny to a commercial backup generator. But typically the ones for a computer end up being small enough to fit in your case. Just moves the liquid in one direction so that it can eventually be cooled down for re-use.
Blocks - A term used for a hollow metal piece that flows the liquid over the object you desire to have cooled. Blocks can be for many different things. Most common are CPU and GPU. But there are also Chipset (NorthBridge and SouthBridge) blocks, mosfet blocks, RAM blocks, and even HDD blocks.
Tubing - Transports the liquid from block to radiator, etc.
Liquid - Have you Face-Palm'ed yet?


Some Side-Notes -

There are often combo devices made to compact the system or lower cost.
Some of these combos can be like a reservoir and a pump, or a passively cooled reservoir for smaller loops with only a harddrive or something. Also combo blocks but typically just Chipset blocks (NB+SB block). Also note that with more powerful cards you will want a full card block so that the Vregs and memory can be cooled as well as the GPU.

Still with me?

More Advanced:

So go on and pick out what res, rad, pump, and blocks you want. It's time to get a little technical.

Tubing Technicalities -

Of course there is tubing, but what is best?
There are many specifications to the tubing that is critical to how well your system will perform. First off there is size:

1/4ID(6mm) - Best suited for small loops containing one block or two small blocks (CPU or HDD setups).
3/8ID(10mm) - For most typical setups. CPU and GPU and chipset.
1/2ID(13mm) - For full loops. CPU, Chipset, Mosfets, Multiple GPU's, HDD's, RAM, the whole 9 yards.

ID = Inner Diameter typically in inches but sometimes in millimeters.
OD = Outer Diamater typically in inches but sometimes in millimeters.
You'll typically see tubing specification like 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD. That's a 1/16 wall thickness. You'll never need much more than that because it's not like your LCS if under gun fire or even considerable pressure. But you can get a 1/8 thickness if you want.

Fittings -

This is a part that can affect not your cooling performance, but your investment! Here's something you need right now: G1/4. That's the British standard. Mind you that has nothing to do with tubing ID/OD. It's the threading size for fittings on your blocks and LCS components. Here are the two types of fittings you'll come across:

Barb Fittings - Simple as can be. It looks like a barb-tip that you slip the tubing over and use a clamp to hold it on. They are pretty safe and cost a considerable amount less.
Compression Fittings - More security, It uses a threaded tightening system to hold the tubing on. Very costly. Example? (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=G1%2F4+compression+fitting)


Some Side-Notes -

Some fittings are angled or even 90* to make it easier to travel the tube to a device that's perpendicular or just really close. Try to make sure the fittings you go to buy have something like a rubber o-ring to further prevent leaks on the G1/4 thread. Also, There's something called Teflon Tape (http://empireplugs.com/store/images/teflon_tape.jpg) that you will want to put on the G1/4 thread to even FURTHER prevent leaks. They can be devastating if you're taking a leak and you come back to over half a grand of losses because you didn't apply 16 cents of tape.

Device Technicalities -

Pumps -

This is a pretty crucial decision. Pick too high flow and you burn it up, pick too low flow and you lose valuable cooling abilities. So don't grab the most expensive one and call it a day. Their flow is typically measured in Gallons Per Hour/Liters Per Hour (GPH/LPH) and ranges from ~90-300GPH. It's very hard to tell you what exactly to buy without knowing the rest of the specs, too. Loop size, tubing size, how tight some turns are, how large your radiator is, etc. So make a good estimate. If you're using mid-sized tubing with a mid-sized loop, buy a mid-rated pump. If you really can't decide, PM me.

Radiators -

Can be many different things. Mostly externally mounted but still very near a fan on the computer because most radiators rely on fans to cool properly. They range from single 80mm's to quadruple 120mm's and beyond. Try looking at Fins Per Inch (FPI). And what materials they are made of. How corrosive the material they are made of is, The design of the flow through it (U or S style), and how well your fans will breathe through it. General things like that.

Reservoirs -

Simple. Pick one that suits your style. Internal, bay-ready, external, you name it. Some reservoirs are even passively cooled (though I'd still suggest a fan blowing on it) They are tube shaped, cubicle, and...well...lots of shapes. Mind the material it's made of and as above, how corrosive it is, and if it's acrylic, is it thick so it doesn't crack when you thread the G1/4. Again, ask yourself these questions to avoid a bad purchase.

Blocks -

Same as all the others. Look for material, flow design, corruptibility by corrosion and all problems alike.

Tubing -

I can't stress how important this: How corrosive the material is. If you buy crappy tubing and it's corroded to the point of where it explodes, you have a problem. Also, consider whether you want UV tubing or not. It's arguable to buy UV tubing with a neutral liquid or clear tubing with a UV liquid. Ask yourself these things.

Liquid -

Just as important as the rest and probably among the most argued things in liquid cooling. Distilled Water versus High performance synthetics. Do you put water in your engine? Also consider if the liquid you buy is conductive in case of a leak. As well as considering if the liquid absorbs and loses heat well (how easily it's affected by the ambient temps). I suggest FeaserONE. The largest issue I've heard with UV liquids is the UV solute settles out and causes mold growing? It may have been a story because he wasn't a FeaserONE fan or he could have been telling the truth. :confused:

Some Final Notes -

How to fill the system - pour it in slow and let it fill the lines, then ALMOST top off the res.
Replace the liquid every 8-12 months. Drain out the whole loop and refill your system like you did the first time it was assembled.
Buy high-flow fans for your radiator. They are the only things keeping the liquid from getting too hot.
Buy a flow-meter or buy a res with one built in to ensure that the pump hasn't stopped for whatever reason. It's not necessary if you don't mind watching the liquid really closely for a sec or two to check if it's moving.
Device Failures while AFK - Incase of a device failure while you are away from your computer, it's a sensible idea to buy a Chip or a front bay device that can read your pump to see if it has stopped moving liquid. And if it has stopped, shut off the computer to keep it safe until you return to fix the issue. There are also devices that will sound a very loud alarm. Liquid cooled PC's aren't meant to be on 24/7. So be sure to turn them off when you leave or go to sleep.

Congratz, you now know about everything required to build your own LCS.

Suggestions? Comments? Additions? Corrections? Post it here.

[foothead]

Wow great guide + rep 4 U.

Here are some parts I recommend.

Scroll down for loop recommendations.

CPU blocks:

Swiftech Apogee XT. This is hands down the coolest CPU block on the market right now, as far as cooling capacity. The only cons are the price, and the sub-par AMD mounting system. Price: $70-80

Danger Den MC-TDX: This is the most recent addition to Danger Den's line of CPU blocks. It is specifically designed for high wattage multi-core CPU's. Keep in mind that there are separate blocks for each socket. Price: $45-60

EK Supreme HF: EK's newest universal CPU block, available in acetal and plexiglas top. Price: $70-80

pumps

OCZ Hydro Pulse: A Low-cost Pump, available in 500 and 800 L/hr models, 3/8" and 1/2" barbs and clamps included. Price: $40 for 500 L/hr, $45 for 800L/hr

Swiftech MCP-655(-B): A high-end, high flow pump, boasting 317 Gallons per hour. 1/2" and 3/8" kits included. Price: $65-110

Radiators

HWlabs Black Ice GTX series: Extreme duty radiators designed to provide the most possible performance. Available in 120mm, 120mmx2, 120mmx3, 120mmx4, 80mm, 80mmx2, 92mm, 92mmx2 Price: $40-175

Swiftech Quiet power series: Radiators designed with the budget-oriented pverclocker in mind. They work exteremly well with low airflow, and are available in 80mm, 120mm, 120mmx2, 120mmx3, stackable 120mm, stackable 120mmx2, stackable 120mmx2, stackable 120mmx3, and there are versions with built in reservoirs (do not buy these!) Price: $17-70

reservoirs

XSPC Passive reservoirs: These reservoirs are designed specifically for enthusiasts who want their systems as cool as possible. The reservoir acts as an extra radiator, cooling the liquid while it passes through. Add a fan for additional cooling. Available in 150mm, 250mm, and 500mm, silver or black. Price: $60-80

FrozenQ Fusion Reservoir: If you are looking for the coolest reservoir money can buy, you just found it. This reservoir consists of a clear tube with your coolant spiraling up in a double helix pattern with a UV cathode in the middle. Price: $130

Bay reservoirs: A simple plexi box that goes in one, two or three 5.25 inch drive bays. Price: $20-60

Trap reservoir: A cylindrical shaped reservoir designed to trap air bubbles from flowing through your system. Price: $30-60

Waterfall reservoir: The name says it all. It's a large plexiglass box, typically taking up a couple 5.25 inch bays, which consists of a waterfall, into a pool at the bottom. This is merely for show, it does not have any noticeable effects on your temps. Price: $60+

Swiftech Micro res: A small, low cost acrylic reservoir. It is supposed to be among the easiest to bleed. Price: $20-25

GPU Blocks

Full Coverage
XSPC Razor Blocks: Right now, the best bang for your buck as far as full coverage blocks is definitely XSPC. Available blocks can be seen here. (http://www.xspc.biz/waterblocks.php) price: varies.

EK full coverage blocks. I can't mention full coverage blocks without mentioning EK. They have made a block for seemingly every card worth waterblocking, and they are always high quality. Price: varies

GPU only

Swiftech MCW60: This block has been around seemingly forever, and is compatible with most every GPU, assuming you can find the right mounting kit. It cools amazingly, and swiftech releases full-coverage heatsinks to go along with it for some cards. Amazing block overall. Price: $40

Chipset blocks

Danger Den MCP Series: These are extremely good blocks for your chipsets, but they must be matched to your motherboard. Make sure you get one that will fit properly. Price: $39-43

Swiftech MCW30: This is a cheap universal chpset block that will work on most AMD or intel chipsets. Price: $25-30

RAM Blocks

Koolance RAM-35: The best designed RAM blocks you can buy. These actually run the water along the memory chips, instead of the others, which run the water along the top, which is much less effective. These allow you to set extremely high memory voltages. Keep in mind you will need to work out exactly which fittings you need for these, as they require special fittings, which are all sold separately. Price: $20-30 each + fittings

Hard Drive
Koolance HD-60: A block for you hard drive. This is only necessary for a hard drive with extreme heat issues, such as an overheating 14k RPM drive, not a 10k RPM, or your 7.2k or whatnot. It has been shown to actually decrease life in raptors and other 10k RPM drives where it excessively cools them. This should be the very last block in your loop. Price: $55-60

fans

I recommend Panaflos or Yate loons. The 120mm ones. You will be best off putting these on a fan controller to reduce noise. Couple the Panaflos with a GTX radiator and you have an awesome heat exchanging setup.

Other things I recommend

Anti-kink coils: A plastic coil that goes around your tubing to keep it from kinking. It also makes your tubing look really cool. Price: $4-5

Fan shrouds: These go between the fan and the radiator to help prevent the dead spot caused by the center of the fan. Price: $10-25

Flow indicators: These tell you how fast the liquid is moving. Price: $20-50

Liquid temperature indicators: Self explanatory. Price: $25-40

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Recommended Loops
All prices are estimated.

Uber Budget
You really have to have it as cheap as possible? Well I have worked out how to make a cheap CPU loop that will still be effective.

CPU Block: Enzotech SCW $35 @newegg

pump/reservoir: Thermaltake Aquabay M5 $50 @xoxide. Also comes with a free temp sensor that sits in a 5.25 bay.

radiatorSwiftech MCR220 $40

fans:2xyate loon 120mmx25mm 2x$5

Tubing: Primochill Primoflex 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD tubing (Get 3/8" so you need less fluid ;)) 4 feet should be sufficient. $9

Barbs: You will need four 3/8 inch G1/4 barbs and clamps. The pump and reservoir come with their own barbs, but I recommend getting your own clamps for them as well. Get the metal hose clamps, not the plastic ones. $12

Fluid is up to you.

Price: $156

Loop goes Reservoir>Pump>Radiator>CPU>Reservoir
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Budget
A high performance CPU loop that doesn't break the bank.

CPU Block: Danger Den MC-TDX *** Make sure you get the proper block for your CPU socket type. The blocks themselves are different, not just the mounts.*** available in AMD 939/AM2/AM3, 775, 1156/1366. $60

Pump: 500 L/hr OCZ hydro pulse. $40

radiator: Swiftech MCR220 $40

reservoir: Swiftech Micro Res. $25

Fans 2x Yate loon 120mmx25mm 2x$5

Tubing: Primochill Primoflex 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD tubing (Get 3/8" so you need less fluid ;)) 4 feet should be sufficient. $9

Barbs: You will need four 3/8 inch G1/4 barbs and clamps. The pump and reservoir come with their own barbs, but I recommend getting your own clamps for them as well. Get the metal hose clamps, not the plastic ones. $12

Choice of fluid is up to you.

Total estimated cost of build: $196

Loop should go Reservoir>pump>radiator>CPU block>reservoir

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Midrange
A middle priced CPU loop that will keep your CPU and possibly other components icy chill.

CPU block: Swiftech Apogee GTZ *** Make sure you buy the correct one for your CPU socket.*** $55

Pump: 800 L/hr OCZ Hydro Pulse $45

radiator: Black Ice GTX xtreme 240 $80

reservoir: Technofront Flow trap reservoir $30

Fans: 4x yate loon push/pull 120mm 4x$5

tubing Primochill primoflex 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD 4 feet should be sufficient. $9

barbs 8 3/8" G1/4 barbs, and 8 metal hose clamps. $20

Total estimated cost: $259

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
High end
Extreme performance for the extreme overclocker.

CPU block: Swiftech Apogee XT ***Be sure you buy the correct mounting bracket for your CPU*** $80

Pump: OCZ Hydro Pulse 800L/Hr $45

radiator: Black Ice GTX Xtreme 360 $115

reservoir XSPC Passive reservoir, 250mm $70

fans 3x panaflo 120mmx120mmx38mm 3x$20 (yes, it is worth it with these rads)

tubing Primochill primoflex 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD tubing, 4 feet. $10

barbs Get eight 1/2" barbs and eight metal hose clamps. $25

Total estimated price: $405

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The sky's the limit
every overclocker's dream

CPU block: Swiftech apogee XT ***Be sure to buy the correct mounting bracket for your CPU*** $80

Pump Swiftech MCP 655-B $100

Radiator 1 Black Ice GTX Xtreme 360 $115

Radiator 2 Black Ice GTX Xtreme 240 $80

Reservoir: XSPC Passive reservoir, 500mm $80

Fans 10 120mmx120mmx38mm panaflos, push/pull configuration. 10x$20

tubing: Feser anti-kink tubing, 8 feet, 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD $25

Barbs: ten 1/2" compression fittings $50

If anyone seriously builds anything approaching this, you better have crossfired video cards with full coverage blocks or something, because this is insane!

Total estimated cost: $730

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

What if I want to cool other components?
If you want to cool any other components, then use one of the blocks I recommended above. Use this as reference for picking the order of your loop.
reservoir>pump>radiators>CPU>GPU>RAM>mosfets>Northbridge>southbridge>hard drive>reservoir
Now, of course you are not going to have all that in a single loop, but it shows you the priority of different watercooled items.

[Grantofhell]

:)

[foothead]

I think a mod should sticky this.
It's the best guide I have seen.

[Grantofhell]

It's far from the best, but the only liquid cooling guide we have.

[foothead]

It's far from the best, but the only liquid cooling guide we have.

Naw, I've never seen one this good, even from my friend, Google.

[Strickin]

Pretty good guide I must agree with foothead. I don't think I'm ready just yet to move on to water cooling(for both $$ reasons and I'm not too advanced on the subject) but when I do, and I'm sure I will someday, I'll remember this post and come back to it.

[foothead]

Yeah, I'm new to this.
Is it possible to get a decent setup for about $100?
for socket AM3.

[Grantofhell]

Yes, but it would be a pre-designed kit or used items. Custom built LCS's are costly. Just the CPU loop for my next build is looking like 400 dollars. However, it's a very high quality build that might keep my CPU at a degree or so above ambient.

[foothead]

Wow.
Could you maybe recommend me one.
I want to OC to 4 GHz.
Its a 955.

[Grantofhell]

You could do that on air and save some cash. LCS's do not cool better than air alot of the time, but the LCS has a better and smaller range. For example, Your 955 might idle at 28C and settle at 60C on 100%. The LCS would help stable that number to like 30-35C Idle and 45C on 100%. Depends on the materials you grab. Pre built kits just offer stability, they typically run slightly hotter than good aftermarket air coolers.

[foothead]

Hmmmm.... I have the vigor monsoon.
Which would do better?

[Grantofhell]

A dual 120mm at 70CFM. You could upgrade the fans and it would perform a lot better. Know that you'd have to get PWM fans and tie them in with a splitter or break out the wire strippers and electrical tape and rig it. A CPU loop would probably keep up with it pretty well, though.

[foothead]

O OK.
Ha told u.
this has been stickied.

[Grantofhell]

yay :)

[foothead]

ya so what would perform better?
My friend would buy th monsoon off me for $60 if I change to WC.

[Grantofhell]

I'd stick with the Monsoon. You'll most likely see better temps. Unless you want to spend +200 on a good LCS.

[Russel]

Grantofhell,

Very cool...literally!

[Thelis]

Wow.
Could you maybe recommend me one.
I want to OC to 4 GHz.
Its a 955.

yiou dont need WC forf that.

[foothead]

yiou dont need WC forf that.

Most people can only get it to 3.6-3.8 on air.
Water cooling can get it to almost 5.

[Thelis]

Most people can only get it to 3.6-3.8 on air.
Water cooling can get it to almost 5.

What are you talking about? Cooling has absolutely nothing to do with how much you can overclock your processor.

I think what you are meaning to say is that Liquid Cooling will allow you to raise your voltages substantially higher than if you air cooled it. While that may be true, your statement is still wrong.

Many people have achieved speeds of 4Ghz and higher without a water cooling set up on that processor.

[01001010]

We have a thread for these guides. No need to make individual stickies. Just gets messy after a while.

http://computerforums.org/showthread.php?t=40515

[worshipme]

Oh, so this gets a sticky but my GPU OC guide doesn't? :D

JK, great guide ;)

[setishock]

Something you left out that is as important as anything else. A pump / flow failure switch. Connected to a monitor of some sort it would shut down your computer gracefully instead of letting it FRY.

[Grantofhell]

I can add that :) Thanks for the suggestion, Seti.

[pepzsoduh]

Wow great guide + rep 4 U.

same :)

great guide

so if i was going to overclock by like .5 GHz would it make much of a difference if i got a liquid cooling system, or an aftermarket heatsink?

What are you talking about? Cooling has absolutely nothing to do with how much you can overclock your processor.

I think what you are meaning to say is that Liquid Cooling will allow you to raise your voltages substantially higher than if you air cooled it. While that may be true, your statement is still wrong.

Many people have achieved speeds of 4Ghz and higher without a water cooling set up on that processor.



at the 2009 gigabyte O.C. competition in taipei contestants were allowed to use either dry ice or liquid nitrogen 4 coolings

[foothead]

What are you talking about? Cooling has absolutely nothing to do with how much you can overclock your processor.

I think what you are meaning to say is that Liquid Cooling will allow you to raise your voltages substantially higher than if you air cooled it. While that may be true, your statement is still wrong.

Many people have achieved speeds of 4Ghz and higher without a water cooling set up on that processor.

Yeah thats what i mean, and also there is a problem that the temps usually get too high anywhere after 4 GHz.

[Thelis]

same :)

at the 2009 gigabyte O.C. competition in taipei contestants were allowed to use either dry ice or liquid nitrogen 4 coolings

Yeah, because of the voltages, not the clock speed.

Yeah thats what i mean, and also there is a problem that the temps usually get too high anywhere after 4 GHz.

Again, due to the voltages. Clock speed has absolutely nothing to do with temps.

[worshipme]

Clock speed has absolutely nothing to do with temps.
Higher frequencies, higher power consumption, higher temps.

[Thelis]

Higher frequencies, higher power consumption, higher temps.

It's indirect. The higher temps are due to higher power consumption. Depending on the chip you have, you can clock to very high speeds without raising your VCore, thus the temps are unaffected. Saying WC will allow you to raise a certain clock speed is not very concise, as WC itself has nothing to do with clock speeds.

[foothead]

Well it indirectly does.

The temps caused by just barely enough power to get 4 GHz are almost too high for air cooling, thus water cooling is necessary.

[worshipme]

It's indirect. The higher temps are due to higher power consumption. Depending on the chip you have, you can clock to very high speeds without raising your VCore, thus the temps are unaffected. Saying WC will allow you to raise a certain clock speed is not very concise, as WC itself has nothing to do with clock speeds.
Of course the temps would be affected. Running at higher frequencies, the CPU would consume more power even if the Vcore was not altered, resulting in higher temps.

Don't like admitting you're wrong, Thelis? :D Me neither.

[Thelis]

Well it indirectly does.

The temps caused by just barely enough power to get 4 GHz are almost too high for air cooling, thus water cooling is necessary.

That's right. I just had a slight problem with the way you worded it. Sorry for acting like a dick.

Of course the temps would be affected. Running at higher frequencies, the CPU would consume more power even if the Vcore was not altered, resulting in higher temps.

Don't like admitting you're wrong, Thelis? :D Me neither.

My point still stands... :cool:

Also, I just ordered a new WC set up.

[foothead]

Sweet Thelis.
How would this one do?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835128015

[Grantofhell]

I r so excited for my new build when I can afford it, lolz.

[Thelis]

Sweet Thelis.
How would this one do?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835128015

Not very well. Newegg doesn't offer good WC hardware.

I wouldn't recommend getting a WC kit, as that is similar to buying a prebuilt PC. The best set ups are assembled.

However, if you are set on buying a kit, and can spare 50 more bucks get this: http://www.petrastechshop.com/pecoba.html

Petras is a great place to buy WC gear, and that kit is quite good and expandable. When you are comfortable, simply add on parts.

[Grantofhell]

Thelis is absolutely right. If you want your loop to drop temps BELOW air cooling on a good HSF - Don't buy a kit.

[foothead]

Ummm.... OK
I will have to think about that one.
Is there a decent setup I could build for about that much?
I dont want to spend over $200.

[Grantofhell]

Sorry to say, but no. The cheapest CPU only custom loop is about 300.(with brand new parts and barb fittings)

[foothead]

Darn.
I guess I will just mod an air cool system with bigger fans.
Is there one better than the monsoon III for AMD?

[Thelis]

Yup, the one I bought is all industry standard. It ran me $350. Take away all the fancy toys and you have a decent CPU loop for $300.

CPU
EK-Supreme LT - Acetal (S 775 & 1366)

Liquid
Feser One F1 Cooling Fluid - UV BLUE - 1 Liter

Res
Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Rev2 Reservoir

Pump
Swiftech MCP655-B™ 12 VDC Pump Without speed controller

Rad
XSPC RX360 - Triple 120mm high performance radiator

Tubing
15 feet Masterkleer Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD

Fans
3 YATE LOON 120mm Case Fans - D12SH-124B - UV Blue Frame with 4 Blue leds - High Speed

Lighting
4 Logisys CCFL 12in Dual UV Cathode(dual)

Barbs
6 Bitspower G1/4 Silver Diamond 1/2in. Fitting w/Hose Clamps

[foothead]

OK thanks Thelis.

I'm gonna go air cooling then, and maybe if I have extra money I will buy a WC system.

[Grantofhell]

Yeah, my loop will be very similar. But I'm only getting a dual radiator. Especially because of the X-flow DD uses on their dual 120mm series.

[cruise05]

Cool.
Could you please maybe recommend me one.
I want to OC my Core2 Quad Q9400

[Grantofhell]

Custom cooled or a kit?

[dude_56013]

I was just browsing...

I'm wondering why this isn't in the OCing/Cooling/Modding thread?

[Grantofhell]

Good point. Should I PM a mod to move it?

[dude_56013]

I would. I mean, it'd get more use there. It was just by chance that I saw it in hardware... If I were looking for something like this guide, I'd look in the OC/Cooling/Mod forum.

[foothead]

You know, it might be a good idea to list some recommended parts, so people will know what is best.

[Grantofhell]

Nothing is ever "best". Only "best for the application". Each block for every part is based around loop size and your pump's head pressure. It's also pendant on your layout as to which pump you should choose. There are a lot of aspects to cover. I'll try to explain these in the guide in a bit more detail soon.

[foothead]

For the time being, I have some loops laid out, for a bunch of different budgets. Please let me know if you see anything that will be an issue, or if you know of anything that would be better for any of them.

EDIT: lol I hit the 10,000 character limit.

[Cabbs]

Another interesting fact I found out: As long as the res>pump, loop order does NOT matter whatsoever. Sounds hard to believe, right? I'm looking for the article right now, link soon.

Edit: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=225485

[foothead]

Actually, loop order does matter. I stressed it because a total n00b at this might get totally confused while building it and do a backwards loop or something (i saw it once)

If you have a lot of components in the loop, you definitely don't want the CPU last.

I actually made my video card 2*C cooler by putting my second rad after the CPU.

[Cabbs]

From what I've seen, people aren't seeing differences in temperatures in changing their loop order. I don't know how, but I'm no thermal engineer. On the other hand, 2 degrees isn't a phenomenal difference either, but a gain is a gain.

[foothead]

My dad is a thermal engineer and he advised it a while back, which is why I tried it, despite what people on OCN told me. So I dunno. CPU temps stayed the same, but the temps of my GPU and NB dropped, so hey why not?

[Cabbs]

Definitely. I could see the same/increase in temps if the only way you could arrange it would be in a way that resulted in a significant loss of flow (90* elbows, excessive tubing, etc.).

[foothead]

I also found that more tubing helps if it creates more even curves. I would think this would matter more in higher flow systems, since I only have a 500L/hr pump, but the fact that it made a measurable difference at all means something.

[Cabbs]

Curves> 90* elbows if possible.

[sniperviper21]

Man, wish i could try out some LCS set ups :(

one day.... one day...

[culexor]

Man, wish i could try out some LCS set ups :(

one day.... one day...

Me too. I have the money, but it's completely unnecessary for me to buy any more parts. Let alone a LCS.

[Grantofhell]

You don't have to be too meticulous on your block order. However, I always suggest placing the rad before your lineup of blocks, but after the pump. For me, it's Pump>Rad>CPU>Chipset>Res.

And also, in relation to the discussion of high flow systems with multiple blocks...

I've seen:
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu7/Grantofhell/ExampleforLCSbypass.png

It's for many blocks under one pump. In order to keep the flow and not strain the pump, they use a bypasser line. I don't really approve of this and would rather buy a more powerful pump, or set up another loop.

[ItsLasher]

How it's done.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/ItsLasher/cid__0617091611a.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/ItsLasher/cid__0617091611.jpg

[Cabbs]

Awesome, another liquid-cooled member!

[foothead]

Looks good, except for the rad. Cut it into the underside of the top or mount it in back.

[Grantofhell]

Temps, clocks, specs, anything? Based on your previous posts, you seem to be an avid overclocker, so I'm interested to see what that setup can accomplish.

And here's how it's really done:

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu7/Grantofhell/P1010174-3.jpg

VVV While rebuilding the loop, so the CM is disastrous:

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu7/Grantofhell/P10101712.jpg

Not recent:

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu7/Grantofhell/76.jpg

[Cabbs]

I like the 90's on the CPU and NB block. Looks much cleaner.

[Grantofhell]

I wish I could have used my two Koolance 90's instead of a Koolance angle riser and a TFC comp. But I needed the NB/SB block to get to proper height with the 340.

[foothead]

Whoah, that video card is very badly warped. What did you do to it?

[Cabbs]

It looks straight in the second pic, lens distortion? Or it could be from the cooler's lack of a back plate.

[Grantofhell]

Lens distortion, I'd have to assume. I'm looking right at my GTS250 and I can assure you it's not warped. The only PCB I've ever warped was my 680i, and that was because of the damn push pins on the 775D.

You can see how the PCI-E slot appears rounded, too. The camera was great in its time but isn't much these days - It's an Olympus.